Posts in category: Henna

Another one of the most famous methods to cheat in Henna products is the addition of Ammonia. Ammonia is a popular chemical in all the hair dyes. It is an alkaline chemical that aims to increase the pH in the hair to levels higher than 10, which allows the dye to show its color on the hair. It also lightens the original hair color so that it can be re-colored. Some Henna brands use this chemical in their products to strengthen the color of the Henna dye on the hair.

Why is ammonia dangerous? Ammonia is an aggressive chemical which has a bad scent. Ammonia-based hair dyes can trigger allergic reactions or fainting, as well as dull, straggly, fragile, and tangled hair.

References:

1- Ahmed S., A. Rahman, A. Alam, M. Saleem, M. Athar and S. Sultana (2000).

Evaluation of the efficacy of Lawsonia alba in the alleviation of carbon tetrachloride-induced oxidative stress. J. Ethnopharm., 69: 157-164.

2- Ahmadian, S. and Fakhree, M. A., Henna (Lawsonia inermis) might be used to prevent mycotic infection. Med Hypotheses. 2009; 73: 629-30.

3- Ali, N. A., Julich, W. D., Kusnick, C. and Lindequist, U., Screening of Yemeni medicinal plants for antibacterial and cytotoxic activities. J. Ethnopharmacol 2001; 74: 173-179.

4- Ali, B. H., Bashir, A.K. and Tanira, M. O., Antiinflammatory, antipyretic, and analgesic effects of Lawsonia inermis L. (Henna) in rats. Pharmacology.1995; 51(6): 356-63.

5- A.O.A.C. (1984). Official Methods of Analysis. 14th (ed.), Association of Official Analytical Chemists, INC. Virginia 22209, USA.

6- Cowan, M. M., Plant Products as Antimicrobial Agents. Clin Microbiol Rev 1999; 12: 564-582.

7- Crombie, L., W.M.L. Crombie and D. A. Whiting, 1990. Alkaloids of Khat (Catha edulis). Alkaloids, 39:139-164.

8- Fessenden, R. J. and Fessenden, J. S. Organic Chemistry.6th ed. California (USA): Brooks/Cole Publishing Company; 1998.

9- H. S. Muhammad and S. Muhammad, 2005. The use of Lawsonia inermis Linn. (Henna) in the management of burn wound  infections. African Journal of Biotechnology Vol. 4 (9), pp. 934-937.

10- Hamden, CT. Herbs: An indexed bibliography. Simon, J.E., A.F. Chadwick and L.E. Craker, 1984. The scientific Literature on selected herbs, Aromatic and Medicinal plants of the Temperate Zone. Archon Books, p 770.

11- Jiny Varghese K., Silvipriya KS., Resmi S. and Jolly CI., 2010. Lawsonia Inermis (Henna): A Natural Dye of Various Therapeutic Uses – A Review. Inventi Rapid: Cosmeceuticals Vol. 1, Issue 1.

12- National Committee Clinical Laboratory Standard ,NCCLS. (1988) . Control limit for monitoring Antimicrobial disease Susceptibility tests Zone diameter .

13- Okpekon, T., Yolou, S., Gleye, C., Roblot, F., Loiseau, P. and Bories, C.,

Antiparasitic activities of medicinal plants used in Ivory Coast. J.

Ethnopharmacol 2004; 90: 91-97.

14- Saadabi, M. A. Abdulmoneim, (2007). Evaluation of Lawsonia inermis Linn. (Sudanese Henna) Leaf Extracts as an Antimicrobial Agent. Research Journal of Biological Sciences 2 (4): 419-423.

15- SASMO (1995), Cosmetics: Henna, SNS 1502/1995, Syrian Arab Standards and Metrology Organization, Ministry of industry, Syria (in Arabic Language).16- YSMO (2003), Henna Powder, YS 577/2003, Yemen Standardization, Metrology and Quality Control Organization, Republic of Yemen (in Arabic Language).

Cheating in Henna products can be done by adding chemicals and other synthetic compounds in order to strengthen the dye and accelerate the speed of the stain absorption by the skin. The most common way to cheat Henna powder goes by adding PPD (Para-phenylenediamine). PPD is a chemical substance used in hair dyes, textiles, and other industrial products. It has the chemical formula C6H4(NH2)2. PPD is an aromatic amine that is recognized a strong allergen and can cause skin sensitization, itching, redness, and in severe cases, blistering and permanent scarring. For these reasons, it is recommended to avoid using hair dyes or products that contain PPD, especially for people with a history of skin allergies or sensitivities.

Also, some black Henna products contain Lead Acetate!

Lead acetate is a chemical compound with the formula Pb(C2H302)2. It is a white crystalline substance that is soluble in water and has a sweet taste. Lead acetate is sometimes used as a sweetener in food and tobacco products, but its use is largely discontinued due to concerns about lead toxicity. Lead is a toxic metal that can cause health problems such as anemia, abdominal pain, joint and muscle pain, memory loss, and decreased IQ of children. In addition, lead exposure can increase the risk of high blood pressure, heart disease, and reproductive problems.

Lead acetate is sometimes added to Henna products for the same reason PPD is added, which is to increase the darkness and speed of the stain absorption by the skin. However, as mentioned above it is a toxic substance that can cause serious health problems if absorbed into the body. These two chemicals are the most famous when it comes to cheating in Henna, and their side effects were the main and direct reason for black Henna products to be prohibited by the authorities of several countries.

Here are some examples of people harmed by the usage of black Henna:

There is No Natural Black Henna powder.

However, the only plants that give black color dye naturally are: The Indigo which can be found in India under the name of Indigofera tinctoria, the Chinese Indigo Baphicacanthus cusia, and the Katam plant Buxus dioica. However, Indigo can cause some itching in some rare cases. Most Black Henna products in the market are unfortunately made from synthetic dyes and chemicals which have been reported dangerous for skin inscription and for hair application. Since there are a lot of brands in the market, and many of them contain highly risky and unsafe chemicals, we recommend everyone to do a proper research about the brand before purchasing any Henna powder in order to avoid harmful consequences.

When it comes to skin application, Henna artists around the world use several mixes in order to create the desired color, and to fix it on the skin for as long as possible. Applying Henna tattoo on the skin is a traditional art form called Mehndi.

First of all, it is important to mention that Henna is used on skin for two different purposes, therapy and beauty. But most importantly to make sure that the Henna powder to be used is 100% natural with no chemical additives in order to avoid any harmful consequences.

PS: Most people visit beauty salons to apply Henna tattoos. It is a crucial matter to make sure that the products applied at these salons do not contain any toxic chemicals such as the ones mentioned under “Black Henna”.

1. Since the Henna is an antibacterial, antifungal material, and it is an important source of phytochemical compounds, Henna Lawsonia Inermis L is used for therapeutic purposes such as lowering high body fever, treating wounds, sunburns, skin rashes, joint pain and headache.

For this kind of treatments, natural Henna should be with no additives.

• However, Henna is also considered one of the main cosmetology material. Several countries and cultures consider Henna as one of the basic cosmetic products, and in this case, the application of the Henna tattoo varies from one culture to another. It is also important to mention that Henna tattoos differ from one skin to another and many factors play a role in the final result and the sharpness of the tattoo such as the concentration of Lawsone, the skin tone, the temperature of the body part where Henna is applied, even the weather can impact the color of the Henna tattoo.

The most common and preferable method is the following:

• First put around 25g of Henna in a bowl.
• Add to it ¼ cup of lemon juice (preferably boiled lemon juice)
• Add 1teaspoon of clove oil and/or 1teaspoon eucalyptus oil
• Mix well until you get a paste texture
• Cover and leave to rest for almost a couple of hours
• Henna paste is ready to be used after that.

This kind of application needs very fine Henna in order to be able to draw the smallest details. which we provide at BARARI

PS: If the paste is very loose, you can add more Henna powder to reach the desired stability.

For those who want to apply Henna tattoo at home, here are some useful tips:

1. You can use a plastic squeeze cone. If it is not available, you can prepare one by filling the Henna mixture in a plastic bag, and snip a little part of the corner off so that it can be used for drawing.
2. The area on the skin where Henna is going to be applied should be cleaned well.

After the application of Henna tattoo, a proper body oil should be applied in order to sharpen the color and fix it for as long as possible. Do not wash with soap until the next day.

• Boil pure drinking water (free of chlorine)
• After boiling the water, mix it with the Henna powder until it becomes a smooth dark brown paste.
• After mixing it, we suggest that the Henna paste be left so that it loses a little bit of its heat and becomes acceptably warm which does not hurt the scalp. The pigment will also be released in this step, and the paste will become dark brown; however, the Henna powder, while mixed with hot water, if it gives a green color paste after mixing, this is a sign that Henna powder was mixed with a harmful synthetic green color.
• Once applied on the hair, it should be covered by plastic shower cap, and should be left for 2 to 3 hours.
• After that, Henna should be washed with warm water, without any application of shampoo or any other hair care products.
• Then it should be dried well.
• After that, a proper bath oil should be applied on the hair in order to fix the color for a longer time and give it a better shine. (Oil bath application should take place after drying the hair. We do not encourage anyone to sleep with the oil on their hair, especially in cold weather)
• After the bath oil is done, one can be showering their hair with desired shampoo.

PS: This is our recommendation. However, there are a lot of methods to apply Henna on the hair and that varies from one culture to another. Some mix it with Cassia, Katam, or even Indigo and other natural compounds. Usually, there is no problem in mixing Henna with these substances, but we highly warn from mixing it with other chemicals, and we do not recommend mixing Henna with oil because this will slightly prevent the proper absorption of the Lawsone pigment.

Also, henna has some protecting characteristics:

• It strengthens the hair and can prevent hair loss
• It strengthens the scalp
• Protects the hair from sunburns
• It also protects the skin from harmful sunlight (UV), and helps who are already affected by sunburns in the healing process
• Henna powder can be mixed with Jujube tree leaves powder to obtain a sun tanned skin color when applied on the body, and it tightens the skin. This process gives best results on women with light brown skin.
• Accelerates healing wounds and stimulates collagen production.
• Reduces the signs of aging on the skin
• Helps healing some skin diseases such as acne and eczema
• Also, Henna has some protecting characteristics:
• It strengthens the hair and can prevent hair loss
• It strengthens the scalp
• Protects the hair from sunburns
• It also protects the skin from harmful sunlight (UV), and helps who are already affected by sunburns in the healing process
• Henna powder can be mixed with Jujube tree leaves powder to obtain a sun tanned skin color when applied on the body, and it tightens the skin. This process gives best results on women with light brown skin.
• Accelerates healing wounds and stimulates collagen production.
• Reduces the signs of aging on the skin
• Helps healing some skin diseases such as acne and eczema

Henna is an important source of phytochemical compounds of high medicinal and pharmaceutical importance such as Naphthoquinone derivatives, Triterpenes, Sterols, Phenol and Phenol derivatives, Cumarine, Xanthan, Flavonoids, Gallic acid, Tannic acid and Mannitol. The leaves, barks, roots, flowers, and even the seeds were used as a folk medicine to treat several diseases including diarrhea, fever, burns, joint pain, and other medical issues.

Also, Henna is useful when used as an astringent, anti-bleeding agent, treatment of cardiac disease, anti-cancer, anti-oxidant with analgesic and anti-pyretic effects. It is as well popularly used to treat skin whiteness, leprosy, jaundice and headaches.

The antimicrobial activity of Henna is examined by several research studies which found that Henna extracts have an inhibitory effect on the growth of several bacterial species, such as Staphylococcus spp., Streptococcus spp., Brucella spp. and   Salmonella spp. Furthermore, it has several anti-fungal properties.

The trend towards utilization of Henna is increasing in recent years and that is for several reasons, which prompted scientific studies about it in different parts of the world. These researches targeted its properties as a dye, medicinal plant, its uses and its chemical constitution, and showed its abundancy in healing properties.

The most important point to determine the quality of the Henna dye is the concentration of Lawsone within its leaves. As mentioned, Henna leaves can contain between 1% and 2% of Lawsone, the higher this concentration, the better the quality of the dye. We at BARARI have a special process that allows us to achieve the highest concentrations of Lawsone.

Natural Henna is used in different countries, and the application differs as the cultures vary, let alone that Henna has different purposes of usage.

Natural Henna can be used for hair application as well as body inscription. While there is a common misunderstanding among the majority of Henna users, as they believe that Henna, which is used for application on the hair, cannot be used for inscription on the body, and this misconception results from the fact that most of ready-made Henna products prepared for skin inscription are in fact unnatural Henna or mixed with chemicals that are not suitable for usage on the hair,  which is correct, on one hand, but on the other hand this does not mean that natural Henna cannot be used on both skin and hair, See Henna application on hair and Henna application on the skin.

Natural Henna does not actually change the color of the black hair. But it gives it a reddish black shine under the sunlight. When it comes to grey hair, a low quality Henna would have a low Lawsone concentration that can give it an orange color. However, high Lawsone concentration in Henna powder can change the color of the grey hair to reddish brown color when applied properly. If applied on a weekly basis, and after some time, the hair color can become rich brown, leave alone that hair with synthetic dyes is not able to absorb the color of the Henna, but it still can benefit from other characteristics.

We at BARARI choose the Henna leaves very carefully: we pick those dried in the shade so that they remain as gleaming as when they were picked. The leaves are then cleaned to remove the sand, straw, and other foreign materials before being sent for milling. They are then milled using air-cooled milling system. Unlike ordinary mills, this system does not generate a high temperature heat, allowing Henna to maintain its luster and distinctive beautiful color during pigmentation.

Henna then passes through air classifying sifting and sorting process, producing a high purity and ultra-fine Henna powder (400 microns and above). During the BARARI Henna journey through the milling, the classifying, and the packing processes, the Henna is in contact with machines made out of stainless steel 304.

Actually, this process is allowing us to achieve the 2% Lawsone concentration which, according to GSO 2156/2011, is the highest standard level of Lawsone concentration in Henna powder.

Thus, the story ends producing a high purity natural Henna free of additives. As a result, a strong and unique color will be obtained for hair dying and body inscription.

BARARI … THE JOY OF NATURE

Many factors can influence the percentage of Lawsone in the Henna powder. Among those we mention:

• Distance between one shrub and another in the farm should be around 1.0 meter in all directions this allows the plant to absorb more nutrients from the soil
• It is important to mention that Henna cannot thrive in zones where temperature falls below 11°C, and it cannot survive any temperature below 5°C.
• The most favorable atmosphere for the Lawsone to be highly concentrated within the plant’s leaves is the tropical and semi-arid climate. This is why countries such as Yemen, India, Soudan, Morocco, Pakistan, China and other African, and South Asian countries are perfect for the growth of this plant.
•  The perfect temperature for Henna plant to produce the best concentration of Lawsone dye is between 35 and 45°C.
• The timing of the harvesting: Henna should not be harvested while raining or directly after rain as this will cause a release of the Lawsone dye from the leaves.
• It is important to know that a Henna tree is harvested for the first time 9 months after interplanting the seedlings. After that, it can be harvested 3 times a year.
• The quality of the first harvest is not that good, but it can be improved by fertilizing it with some organic fertilizers. Then the quality improves at the second harvest, and the best harvest ever is the one that is during the summer.
• Drying the leaves under the shades will maintain the greenish luster color of the powder.
• Drying the leaves under the sun will not harm the concentration of the Lawsone pigment, but will slightly change the leaves color to red.
• Every 1 kg of Henna leaves needs 1 square meter for drying.
• Drying Henna leaves in outdoor sunny area takes 24 hours.
• It is recommended that Henna shrubs get drip irrigation and this is to save water.
• The time of interplanting the seedling is crucial for the survival of the Henna plant.

• After harvesting process:
• Cleaning Henna from branches, stones, and any other foreign material is crucial for the concentration of the Lawsone dye.
• Grinding Henna without generating high temperature levels is crucial as well to prevent burning Henna leaves and evaporating the essential oil.
• Refining Henna to reach high degrees of fineness leads to obtaining a higher concentration of Lawsone pigment.
• Storing Henna in dark, cold and dry weather is the most favorable storage method for Henna to maintain its quality